Boston, USA: my kind of town
Thomas Levenson, the author, enjoys returning to Boston, a smart city with good restaurants and a beautiful formal park.
WHY BOSTON?
Because, despite terrible traffic and grotesque winters, it is a genuinely smart town. Often infuriating, but never dull.
WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST WHEN YOU ARE AWAY?
The Public Garden in the heart of Boston, a beautiful formal park, complete with waterfowl pond; the Swan Boats (www.swanboats.com ); the "Make Way For Ducklings" statue; and lots of fine places to eat and drink when one is tired of the promenade.
WHAT'S THE FIRST THING YOU DO WHEN YOU RETURN?
Have a whisky and/or roast chicken at Hammersley's Bistro (001 617 423 2700; www.hamersleysbistro.com)
WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO STAY?
My favourite place to have a room service breakfast – my wife and I did so here after our wedding night – is the Taj Boston, overlooking the Public Garden (536 5700; www.tajhotels.com, doubles from £155). The Charles Hotel in Harvard Square combines virtues – location, a good jazz club and a top restaurant (864 1200; www.charleshotel.com, doubles from £160); and for sheer cheek, the Liberty Hotel amuses me by occupying the site and part of the building of the old Suffolk County Jail (224 4000; www.libertyhotel.com, doubles from £180).
WHERE WOULD YOU MEET FRIENDS FOR A DRINK?
The Monday Club Bar, 91 Winthrop Street (864 1933; www.upstairsonthesquare.com) – high ceilings, a fire in winter; or No. 9 Park (742 9991; www.no9park.com), one of Boston's best restaurants.
WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES FOR LUNCH?
Mr Bartley's in Harvard Square (354 6559; www.mrbartley.com) No amenities – not even a lavatory. No booze. But real, serious, devoted attention to burgers and a sense of décor that has somehow managed to preserve that early-Sixties vibe in the face of globalised brand blandness.
AND FOR DINNER?
Ming Tsai's Blue Ginger (781 283 5790; www.ming.com/blueginger) survives both the suburban location and the curse of the celebrity chef with genuine surprises like foie gras shumai (dumpling). For a more casual bistro, Chez Henri in Cambridge (354 8980; www.chezhenri.com) offers Cuban-French food.
WHERE WOULD YOU SEND A FIRST-TIME VISITOR?
Fenway Park is one of the most beautiful sports venues in existence and the Red Sox baseball team has a few tickets available on the day of the game (www.redsox.com). But the wise get out of town for a bit – Cape Ann has great beaches, and a couple of archetypal old New England coast towns: Gloucester as the gritty fishing village, and Rockport for summers as they were spent when our parents were children.
WHAT WOULD YOU TELL THEM TO AVOID?
The Duck Tours, which trap you on amphibious vehicles for an often inaccurately led tour of the city.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR TAXI?
The T (our underground) works well and the bus system is adequate. But part of the pleasure of Boston is the rest of New England, so rent a car.
HANDBAG OR MONEYBELT?
Street crime is not a problem these days. The usual rules for big cities apply.
WHAT SHOULD I TAKE HOME?
Photos – this is a beautiful city.
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/northamerica/usa/6009148/Boston-My-Kind-of-Town.html)
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